V&A Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

Alexander McQueen V&A

“You’ve got to know the rules to break them. That’s what I’m here for, to demolish the rules but to keep the tradition.”

Alexander McQueen V&A Show

The words of Lee McQueen are written across the walls of the V&A’s hotly anticipated show Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, and I attended the press preview this morning to see the exhibition.

Alexander McQueen

The show takes us through McQueen’s inspiring career as a visionary fashion designer and couturier, beginning with an exploration of his time in London and the influence the city had on his work.

Alexander McQueen V&A

London was the epicentre of McQueen’s world. He grew up in the East End and left school at the age of 15 to become a tailor’s apprentice on Savile Row in Mayfair. It is true what he said about his own work: “Everything I do is based on tailoring.”

His training with Gieves and Hawkes and experience at theatrical costumiers Berman’s and Nathan’s imbued many of his designs with historicism and style.

Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty

In 1990 he joined the prestigious MA Fashion course at Central Saint Martins art school in London.

 Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty

This jacket is from his MA graduation collection – it’s silk lined with human hair!

The exhibition shows McQueen’s development as a designer and artist.

His architectural use of leather…

Alexander McQueen leather dress

And Romantic Nationalism encompassing smooth, rich reds and wool tartan designs…

Alexander McQueen Tartan

Alexander McQueen tartan

Alexander McQueen V&A

Alexander McQueen

V&A Alexander McQueen

And then we reach the centre of show, aptly entitled the ‘Cabinet of Curiousities’.

Alexander McQueen

A four wall, floor to ceiling ode to McQueen’s work.

Alexander McQueen Cabinet of Curiousities

McQueen once remarked: “I like the accessory for its sadomasochistic aspect.”

Alexander McQueen accessories

McQueen used so many materials, commissioning skilled wood carvers, leather workers, glass specialists and embroiderers to help realise his vision.

Alexander McQueen fashion

And then on to my favourite part of the show: his ‘Romantic Exoticism’ and ‘Romantic Naturalism’ work.

Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty

Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty

Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty

Alexander McQueen fashion exhibition

His sources of design inspiration seem to span the globe and the lure of the exotic can be particularly felt in this room.

Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty

It’s a dramatic space, eerily lit, and each mannequin revolves slowly, allowing you to examine each sublime design.

Savage Beauty

He once said: “My work will be about taking elements of traditional embroidery, filigree and craftsmanship from countries all over the world. I will explore their crafts, patterns and materials and interpret them in my own way.”

Savage Beauty Alexander McQueen

Spin. Spin. Spin – spinnaker – dressmaker.

Savage Beauty Alexander McQueen

Savage Beauty Alexander McQueen

Savage Beauty Alexander McQueen

Savage Beauty or what?

Savage Beauty Alexander McQueen

McQueen also said: “I have always loved the mechanics of nature and to a greater or lesser extent my work is always informed by that.”

Savage Beauty Alexander McQueen

Nature was the most enduring influence on his work and this relationship is most clearly reflected in ‘Plato’s Atlantis’ (Spring/Summer 2010), the last fully realised collection the designer showed before his death in February 2010 and it is considered to be Alexander McQueen’s greatest achievement. Inspired by Charles Darwin’s On the Origin of Species it presented a narrative that centred not on the evolution of humankind, rather, in retrograde: on its devolution. Alexander McQueen created complex, digitally engineered prints inspired by sea creatures.

Savage Beauty Alexander McQueen

I had such a fantastic morning! It’s an exquisitely curated show… you must go and see this exhibition.

Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty

Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty shop

While you’re there, take a look round the shop!

★★★★★

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty is at the Victoria and Albert Museum and opens to the public on 14th March until 2nd August. More information can be found on their website.

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